It all Comes in Waves: The Solitary Joy of the Ocean

Chapter 7

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Este woke me up the next morning insisting this was the time she teaches me to surf.

"The waves are astronomical right now!" She bubbled, pulling my arm while I was lying down.

"Okay, Okay." I laughed at her.

I finally got out of bed and looked at the time. It was eight in the morning, which isn't actually that early, but I was still catching up on sleep from the past decade.

Este was already in her bikini and holding out mine for me to put on.

"Why are you so excited about this?" I laughed again.

"I haven't surfed in a hot minute, the waves are so perfect, and I get to teach you!" She explained.

I changed into my own bikini and met Este again who was waiting outside my door. We rushed downstairs, and grabbed a piece of fruit off the table as breakfast.

"We're going surfing!" Este told Dahlia and Randy who were sitting at the dining table.

We made it outside and I saw what Este was talking about. The waves did look pretty good right now.

She led us both to a shed that was beside the house and unlocked it. Inside was a few surfboards and some other supplies and tools.

Este grabbed a pink one with a flower pattern and told me to pick which ever one I wanted. I decided on a blue one with two white stripes down the middle.

"Perfect. That one is my old one, but I never used it much. It's yours now." Este smiled.

Este explained to me that we need to wax them first. So we set them down and she showed me how to do that. We made cross patterns with the wax bar across our boards.

"Okay, let's teach you how to do this thing." Este gushed.

I followed her out to shore and she had us set our boards down again flat on the sand.

"I've taught many people how to surf before. And as you know, I used to be a lifeguard, so you're in good hands." She assured.

I was definitely nervous. But also excited. I knew I was a good swimmer, so I was more nervous about knowing when to do what I'm supposed to at the exact right time.

"Okay, go ahead and sit down on it." Este started.

I sat down on top the end of the board, Este doing the same so she could teach me properly.

She then held up a black rope that was attached to my board.

"What's that?" I asked.

"It's your tether. It goes around your ankle, so you can stay attached to your board."

I took the Velcro and strapped it around my ankle, making sure it was tight. Este did the same to her own board.

"So first you lay on your stomach." She continued. The two of us laid down. "And you start by paddling, but I won't make you do that in the sand.

"Good, I was afraid you were." I teased her.

She grinned then kept going. "Once you're out in the water, you have to wait for the right wave."

"How will I know which one is a good wave?"

"I'll be beside you, and I'll let you know."

I glanced out into the ocean and saw a few people surfing in the distance, also taking advantage of the good waves. They had just caught a large wave and rode it like they were flowing with the water. I started becoming very excited. I knew I would probably mess up a lot in the beginning, but I couldn't wait to get the hang of it.